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不能不说,阿拉伯是一个让人神往的地方,其独特的地理位置,悠久的历史文化,浓重的宗教特色,然而又不像西方国家那样张扬,使其保持着一种独有的神秘感。近几十年来,由于其充足的石油储量,使这一地区成为了全球的聚焦所在。地区经济也因此突飞猛进。当地有一句老话:“上天赐良马和石油于人类”,是的,上天对你们是仁慈的,所以在阿拉伯国家,当地人不需要工作,都可以过上富裕的生活。

然而,阿拉伯所在中东,也因为石油给自己惹来了不少麻烦。一旦提及中东,人们最初的感觉就是战乱,或者封闭。然而,阿联酋,特别是迪拜是阿拉伯的一大亮点,不但被人们称为阿拉伯世界最安全的地方,更因为酋长航空的异军突起,加上优越的地理位置,充足的阳光,逐渐成为新兴的旅游热点。在英国随处可见酋长航空的标志,报纸上经常出现迪拜的房产商广告。5月25日,Gatwick机场,我们终于登上了酋长航空的飞机,启程迪拜!

之前在读书的时候,经常听老师拿酋长航空作为正面的例子,作为世界上最好的航空公司之一,其在英国的宣传成果是相当成功的。终于有机会亲身体验一下,到底这个airline有什么特别。由于是从London Gatwick出发,飞机是空客A330-200,不如从Heathrow出发的A340系列,当然这不是最主要的,关键还是服务。总结一下有以下几个不错的地方:

1. 每人有独立的视听娱乐,电影很新
2. 即时的bbc新闻,让乘客时刻了解地面上的最新动态
3. 起飞后乘务员会给乘客发菜单,但不是说你可以点餐,而是提前告诉你今天供应什么

其实这几点也说不上有多特别,其他的就更普通了,所以说,酋长航空,说到底,也没有多么的特殊(也许特别的地方都在头等舱,我们看不到罢了)

经过7小时20分钟的飞行,我们飞临迪拜上空。从窗口俯视城区,黄沙一片片,真的跟英国漫山遍野的绿色形成鲜明对比。当地时间7点30分,我们降落在了迪拜国际机场。

接下来就是过海关了,一进passport control区,就看到了一个个身穿白色长袍的当地人,汗,真是够简单。头上裹块布,一件长袍,一双凉鞋。不知道他们穿不穿裤子,唯一可以肯定的是,不管男女,没有人穿袜子。没什么人排队,我们找了个关口,拿着护照过去了。谁知道,麻烦就从这一刻开始了。

我们是事先通过酋长航空办理的过境签证,唯一收到的就是一封确认信,并非贴在护照上的签证。外加我跟lily的护照分别是中国驻伦敦跟墨尔本使馆签发的,那群海关人员也不知什么原因开始刁难我们。不能立刻入关也就算了,还让我们在一个屋子里坐了十多分钟,拿着我们的护照查东查西,难道我们比你们阿拉伯人更像恐怖分子?最后在经过视网膜扫描,确认我们在英国的身份后,才予以过关。再次强烈鄙视一下阿联酋人,有了签证还那么麻烦,那还要签证干嘛?

出关耽误了我们大约半小时,好在酒店前来接机的小姐还耐心地在出口等待,感动一下,辛苦了!出机场的那一刻,感觉到一股强烈的热浪,38度的气温,不是盖的!坐上酒店的面包车,前往Grand moov hotel.

由于整晚都是在飞机上度过,计划就是到酒店后休息一上午,然后下午参加本次迪拜行的重点项目-沙漠探索(Desert Safari)。然而由于到酒店还不到9点,酒店原先的客人还没有退房,只好在大堂干等。直到近11点,终于进了Grand moov的行政标间。这家4星级酒店的行政标间给人的感觉是个小套间,有厅有房,也很宽敞,赞一个,也顺便推荐一下吧。

一觉醒来已经是下午1点多,距离沙漠探索出发时间还有2个小时,我们决定去周围走走,酒店的保安推荐我们去附近的一个购物中心走走。Grand moov所处Deira区,也算是迪拜的老城区。周围的房子不能算新,普通民房居多,不知为什么总感觉怪怪的,房子多数都是10来层,一幢幢分得很开,中间没有什么过渡的建筑,也很少有店。也许是天气太热,街上行人不多,烈日下步行10多分钟后,终于来到了这个购物中心。冷气很足,一进门就可以忘记外面的气温了。也许迪拜有太多的购物中心了,眼前这家规模不小,名牌也不少,装修尽显富贵,放在英国任何一个城市都可以成为头号购物中心了,然而在迪拜,却没什么人气。在3楼的food court吃了午餐,粗粗走马观花着,这里的物价其实并不便宜,不知道购物天堂的名号从何而来。约一个多小时后,我们返回酒店,准备行装,等待进军沙漠的时刻。


沙漠中建造着都市

3点30整,电话响起,司机已经到楼下了。出发!司机大哥是个叫Jeff的当地人,穿着招牌的白色大褂。寒暄之后,我们上了他的丰田越野车。和事先了解的情况一样,我们这车还会有5个其他游客,这样每车7个游客+1个司机,20辆车左右为一个车队,进军沙漠。路上跟Jeff兄打听迪拜的汽油价格,结果他的回答让我目瞪口呆,他说:“现在汽油贵了,要1.5dhs(约合人民币3元,£0.2英镑)一升”,我的天啊,20p的邮费,你还喊贵?于是我问他,以前多少,他说一般1dhs就够了,从这一刻,我相信了,这个国家,油真的比水便宜。


在Jeff的车上, 初抵沙漠

虽然迪拜是在沙漠上建起来的,但距离我们要去的那片沙漠也不算很近。一路上欣赏当地风光,有两样东西让人无语:首先是国王(确切的说,应该是酋长)专用的机场,酋长有专机,我们不会感到奇怪,然而居然还有自己的机场,更夸张的是,这个机场的规模,跟国内中小城市的民用机场差不多了,酋长要用了还有点用,那酋长要是长年在家,岂不是变成长期摆设品?第二个要说的是郊外的一个高尔夫场,在这个寸草不生的地方,任何绿化都是靠大量的钞票砸出来的。这个高尔球场成了整个城市最大的绿地,可惜的是一般人无法享受。正在琢磨他们是怎么保持这些绿色的时候,汽车开近了,这才发现,每个约10米就有一个自动浇水喷头,整个球场上千个喷头正在同时工作,为这些高贵的草提供生命的源泉,这时,时间是下午4点30,烈日还在头顶,气温不下35度。原来,在这个水比油贵的国家,水是可以这么用的。

大约5点,终于来到了沙漠,其实这里并非真正的寸草不生,还是可以三三两两的看到野草带来的绿色。下车零距离感受一下沙漠,沙子很纯,很温暖,其实跟海边的没有很大的区别,在这里可以极目远眺,你感受不到都市的喧哗。偶尔可以在地上看到骆驼的脚印。所以我想说,其实只要你有足够的水,沙漠并不可怕,相反,它是可爱的。

所有的车陆续到场后,沙漠探索的第一个项目开始,坐着越野车冲沙。Jeff载着我们冲上一个个沙丘,然后又从另一侧俯冲下去,或者干脆横着车漂移出去,或在丘顶飙速,伴随着偶尔的失重,这种感觉,真的比过山车还刺激。车里当然也少不了一声声的尖叫声,是的,只有在沙漠才能这样开车,没有交通规则,只要别翻车,你想怎么做都行,因为沙子是柔软的。。。

经历约20多分钟的冲沙,太阳已经渐渐西下,我们来到了一个高地,欣赏壮观的沙漠日落。整个沙漠在这一刻显得更加灿烂,很少能有机会,能够在这么低的角度看太阳。迪拜,可以让你在海上看日出,沙漠看日落。

之后我们穿过了一个骆驼养殖场,来到了位于沙漠中心的营地。接下来的活动更加丰富。。。

营地是正方形的,四周是简易的草木房,提供饮料和酒水。也有几间卖纪念品的商店。另外值得一提的就,这里有阿拉伯当地服装让个人尝试,也就是我说的白色长袍,当然还有女士的黑色“连衣裙”。除了传统服饰,我们还品尝了当地特有的水烟,抽的时候并没有什么特殊感觉,连我这个不抽烟的人都不感觉呛,只是能看到自己嘴里吐出长长的烟云。然而几口过后,顿时觉得头有点晕,到后来更是觉得走路都有点摇晃了,难道当地人抽这个烟,就为了享受这晕晕的感觉?另外还有一项就是当地的传统纹身,当然并不是永久的,是暂时性的。方法是用特殊配料的颜料在手臂上画一个东东,半小时后把这个颜料擦了,那个画着的东东会在皮肤上停留10来天。由于跟那个负责给游客纹身的mm无法交流,就伸出手臂随她画了,可不知为什么,她花了2秒钟时间在我受上画了条蛇不像蛇,龙不像龙的东西,莫名其妙。。而Lily小姐却得到了一朵小花,这差别也太大了点,难道当地男人好蛇?


沙漠营地

在营地的外面,有2匹骆驼等待着游客们的到来。每个人都可以骑着骆驼小小地走一圈,和骑马不同的是,骆驼在下跪的姿势下让人们上驾,然后在你要下来之前来个突然下跪(这是一个相当刺激的过程);也许是每天要接待太多的游客,骆驼的脾气并不好,几次回头顶向其背上的人,动物和人是一样的,同样的事情做多了,是要郁闷的:p

在营地的另一侧,是一个约45度角的沙丘,上面放着几块滑雪板,当然在这里,它们的用途从滑雪变成了滑沙。滑沙在来迪拜前就憧憬了好久,然而真正到了这里,不由有点紧张。从来没有滑过雪的我,一步一步来到了沙丘的顶端。光着脚丫踩上了滑雪板,管不了那么多,冲了。滑板开始动了,速度由慢而快,这时候根本没有空闲享受下滑的刺激,满脑子想的是,别摔倒了!直到几秒后顺利到达了丘底,才明白,原来这真的不难。之后LilY也成功地飞速下滑。滑沙真的是相当的好玩,只可惜世界上没有那么多沙漠。。。


时钟接近了7点,天已经暗了,大家陆续来到营地中的饭桌前,席地而座,我们的晚餐开始了,内容是当地特色的烧烤+蔬菜沙拉,阿拉伯人的饮食文化跟我们中国比起来差得太远,然而能在沙漠中享受这种风味晚餐,人人都是那么尽兴,到最后居然还有新鲜水果供应,迪拜,真的佩服你,大家看到了吗,低油价可以让那么多的夸张变成可能。

晚饭后,大家的情绪也开始high了,这时,belly dance出场了,阿拉伯民族音乐背景下,这位大概有40岁高龄的舞娘翩翩起舞-肚皮舞。。。几曲下来,大家也都上台共欢一阵,转眼间,已经9点30。大幕落下,精彩的沙漠探索完美落下帷幕。回到Jeff的车,看着他在月光下熟练地驾叹着沙漠,远处都市灯火辉煌,迪拜的第一天,我们很尽兴!

迪拜游记 (下) - by LilY

更多照片,见迪拜相册

Sunday, June 1st, 2008