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Archive for July, 2008

巴黎假日(三)

过桥后,又在街边看到了法式煎饼,看很多游客都吃的很香的样子,买个吧。选了草莓酱当夹心,薄薄一个饼,2欧,国内鸡蛋饼的7倍价格?This is Paris. 尝了知道觉得味道也就这样了,自己说不定也能做出来,完全是黄油的香味在诱人。

走着走着就来到了圣日尔曼大街,街边不少咖啡店,不少人坐在露天的座位上享受夏日的阳光。这里要说一下,法国,无论是酒吧还是咖啡店,都会有那么几排座位放在室外,其实这个也没什么特别,真正特别的是,他们的排序方式–清一色的面向大街,如同街上正有演出。。。路人真有那么好看?还是说,这也是他们的浪漫方式?

步行大约十来分钟后,到达卢森堡公园–巴黎市区最大的公园。奇怪的是,21世纪,巴黎最大的公园,居然还有高高的围墙,尽管不收门票,但游客还是得找到门才能进去。一进门就是黄土地,跟马德里的丽池公园一样,只是面积比丽池小多了,跟伦敦海德比起来也小得可怜,然而在绿化面积相当有限的巴黎,有这么个公园也算是不错了。再往里走是一个很大的圆形池塘,周围围着一排座椅,不少游客在此歇脚,享受阳光,在这里,我们第一次亲眼看到了艾菲尔铁塔……..的顶部。

公园内的人群,以及后方的巴黎市政厅

在卢森堡公园稍作休息后,出发前往不远出的圣贤祠。该祠原先的作用跟罗马的万神殿相同(虽然比罗马的晚造了约1500年),后来貌似改为纪念为法国作出贡献的先烈的祠堂。要收费,门票还不便宜,考虑到对法国的先贤没有任何兴趣,外加到过罗马的万神殿(可爱的罗马是免费的),到门口照张相就闪人,坚决贯彻穷游精神。

晚饭时间了,穷游归穷游,吃还是得吃好的,这是具有YY&LilY特色的穷游政策 — 廉价交通是绝对的,门票纯粹取决于兴趣而不是名气,吃一定要吃有特色的,睡一定要睡爽的(2个人出来玩,青年旅馆是完全不必要的)。由于今天吃的以面点为主了,晚上不能再面包了。不远万里跑到了功略上的推荐的越南河粉店(同时也是巴黎的华人区),美美饱餐一顿,要说吃的,全世界哪里能跟亚洲比?!!!

坐公车一路往西,先到下榻的酒店放些行李,然后再出发前往铁塔。我们定的是3星级的最佳西方,到了发现,门面就p大一点地方,连大堂都没有,当时整个酒店只有1个员工(晚上8点多),更夸张的是,这个人英语极烂,外加这是他在这里上班的第3天(这是后来才知道的)。来到房间,有点旧,也不算宽敞,但也算干净,后面还有个小花园。放下行李,立刻出发,前往不远处的巴黎头号象征–铁塔。

铁塔相信所有人都很熟悉,所以这里就不多废话了,只是确认一下,铁塔的确很雄伟,建造难度也不小,特别是100多年前。之所以选在这么晚去铁塔,是想从塔上看日落,以及巴黎的夜景。然而因为正直7月,夏令时制的巴黎,一直要到晚上10点半以后天才黑。。到了塔下才9点来钟,登塔的队伍长得看不到尾。暴走一天的我们还是决定择日再登了,先从各个角度欣赏一下黄昏的铁塔吧,同时,LilY小姐乘坐了梦寐以求的,塞纳河边,铁塔下的旋转木马–好称全世界最浪漫的旋转木马。

OK,到此为止,巴黎第一天室外活动部分到此结束。。回到酒店后发现7月12日正值法国夺得世界杯冠军10周年庆,电视上正在直播一场法国98年世界杯原班人马参加的纪念赛,同时回顾10年前的情景。其他频道听不懂,还好,足球不需要语言。。。

Wednesday, July 23rd, 2008

巴黎假日(二)

好了,到时间开始游览景点了。来到圣心教堂底下的小广场,往上仰望,教堂建在半山上,全白色,三个大圆顶高高突起,有别于那些在市区街边常见的教堂。此刻巴黎晴空万里,蔚蓝的天,洁白的教堂,以及山坡上坐满的各国游客,一起享受着夏日的阳光。废话少说,还是看照片吧。

由于不是周日,没有修女在里面做弥撒,听不到传说中的美声圣歌,外加去过的欧洲教堂已经数不胜数,我们匆匆走了一圈,就出来了。里面没有什么特别,与其它教堂一般阴暗,我是信佛教的,教堂,纯粹是旅游景点而已了。。站在教堂门口的平台,可以俯视整个城区,也许是高度还不够,或者距离太过遥远,除了零星的几座高楼外,没有什么可看的。特别要说一下,由于角度的关系,铁塔在这里刚好看不到。顺着台阶下山,不少年轻人围坐在这里看街头艺人的表演,其中有个黑人向我们展示了一流的花样足球技术,凭这一点,相信他不比小罗差(加一句:小罗现在是我们米兰的人咯,哈哈哈哈)

下一站,大名鼎鼎的巴黎圣母院。沿着圣心教堂前的小巷往地铁站走,沿街不是贩卖铁塔钥匙扣的黑人小贩 ,就是卖类似中国鸡蛋饼的法国薄饼,唯一的区别是,法国这里多数是甜的–里面夹的不是油条火腿肠,而是蜂蜜果酱之类,因为加了黄油,满街都是它的香味。很想买一个尝尝,由于刚吃完午餐,所以决定到时候在别处品尝了。

来到地铁站,难得有个会讲英语的售票员,是个黑人大妈,买了10次票11欧多点,这个价格还能接受。直接前往站台等列车了。就在我们第一次登上巴黎地铁的时候,发生了一个插曲:在我后面的一个貌似吉普塞之类民族的年轻妇女,在我上车的时候拼命在后面往前推我,刚开始以为是车快要关门了,也没在意,就加快了上车速度,可奇怪的是我都在车里面了,她还是拼命推,回头冲她喊了句:excuse me? 不见她有任何反应,甚至连头都不抬一下。对了,这里是法国,没几个人懂英语。列车平稳启动,我也顺势放下了刚刚抓在扶手上的手,没想到就在我的手回落到牛仔裤口袋的时候,碰到了另一只手。那只手见有别的手过来,立刻从我的口袋里抽出,当然,是空手。原来,这个女人是贼!再次回头冲她喊了句:what are you fucking doing? 当然, 又一次鸡同鸭讲。这个女人也从这一刻开始面对门站,再也没有回过头来。考虑到不清楚这节车厢上有多少他们的人,而且也没有证据证明她做了什么,当时没有能拿她怎么样。谁到知道,这种情况下,她一定会在下一站马上下车,巧的是,我们也在该站下车。下车后发现跟她一伙的是还有一个年纪相仿的女人,没顾那么多,直接从侧面给了她一个‘非合理冲撞’。果然是做贼心虚,被人撞得踉跄也不敢吱声,灰溜溜地跑了。我们看到她并没有离开车站,而是直接去了对面的站台,看来,又有不幸的人要被下黑手了。

来之前就听说巴黎治安很差,远不如伦敦。没想到竟然差到这种程度,连这种手无缚鸡之力的年轻女人都能当贼(当时马德里那帮,还是6个年轻高大的男人,我怎么那么背,每次都在地铁上遇到这类货色?)还好钱包还在,从这一刻起,进入红色警戒状态,同时把钱包里的大部分现金进行安全转移。

列车来到了Citi站,也就是塞纳河上的Citi岛,圣母院就建在这个岛上。出站后走一小段路,看到无数游客所在的广场,眼前的那个古老建筑,就是巴黎圣母院了。

圣母院是一座典型的哥特式教堂,在欧洲可以说随处可见,如约克,佛罗伦萨,都有规模巨大的哥特式教堂。巴黎声母院,若不是那本世界名著,估计也不会像现在这样吸引如此众多的游客吧。参观圣母院,跟多数教堂一样,是免费的,另外据说圣母院内有3个巨型窗花非常有特色,于是我们加入了约400米长的队伍,等待进场。广场上的鸽子让人想起米兰Duomo的广场的鸽子,而一帮中年妇女到处问游客:do you speak english 也让人想起了米兰Duomo广场上那些向游客分发玉米粒的吉普塞人(同样的广场,同样的骗子),法国,到处的小偷跟骗子,你们有什么资格对中国说三道四?不要告诉我你们治安不好的原因是因为照顾人权,bull shit!

由于不需要买票,队伍前进的速度还是不错的,不一会我们就进到了圣母院内侧:一贯的阴沉沉的感觉。除了几个捐款箱,看不出有什么特别。所谓的窗花也不过是一个玫瑰花瓣状的玻璃窗,说窗户设计有特色还能够让人接受,至于窗花本身就非常普通了。真的是对教堂有了审美疲劳,还不到5分钟,我们就选择了闪人。烈日当头,没有多少兴趣在这个沙子铺成的广场上跟无数游客们一同滞留。决定直接进军下一个目标,先贤祠跟卢森堡公园,前进方式:步行。在离开声母院的广场前试图寻找法国公里0公里的标志,但可惜没能找到,接着来到了塞纳河上的一座小桥,往河的南岸前进。

Friday, July 18th, 2008

巴黎假日(一)

时间过得飞快,从威尼斯回来的情景似乎还历历在目,然而细细一想这已经是近10个月前的事了。7月12号,我们再一次踏上了欧洲大陆。法国,这个离英国最近的国家,在英国生活了5年后才前去探访,的确有点姗姗来迟的味道,。。

工作后才知道假期的难得,所以充分利用周末是真正的王道。5月底通过lastminute.com预定了这个Eurostar city break, 3天2晚,Paris only, 时间不算太紧,想必不需要再匆匆忙忙,可以悠闲地体验一下这座浪漫名城的风土人情了吧.

由于去马德里那次错过飞机的痛至尽难忘,所以12日早早赶到了伦敦St Pancras火车站,9点半的火车,我们不到8点半就到了车站。第一次坐跨国火车,同时可以暂时远离办公室里的七七八八,说不兴奋那一定是假的了。St Pancras很新很现代,在英国不多见。同样,10个月后又一次登上欧洲之星的火车,LilY说这个车不如当年在意大利的欧洲之星,不过也算不错了,位置很宽,反正就2小时20分钟,眨眼就到的。

列车缓缓启动,也许是早上起得太早,很快我们2个都昏昏入睡。原本还想着感受一下海底隧道的,结果一觉醒来已经是1个多小时后了。窗外是碧绿的田野,偶尔有几座小平房。感觉有点陌生,但说实话还真的不确定是不是已经到了法国。直到火车路过一条公路,看到汽车是沿着右侧行驶的,这才确定,我们已经在法国的领土了。这时车上的广播也响起,乘务员先用法语后用英语(在英国的时候还是先英后法),这也算是跨国火车一大特征了吧。

当地时间中午12点50分左右,列车驶进巴黎Gare du Nord站,终于,我们踏上了法兰西的土地。由于事先做了不少功课,我们已经为自己量身定做了一套3日行程。由于火车站在巴黎北部,第一站遍是同在北面的圣心教堂。出站的时候有人专门为游客们提供免费地图,赞一个。其实也不是法国官方的行为,而是某公司借免费地图打广告而已,很可惜,我从头到尾都没有好好看一下那个广告,别说记住名字了,连他们是做什么的都不知道。。。

刚出站的第一感觉是很像日内瓦火车站门口的情景,难道是因为都用法语的缘故?拿起地图,出发。距离圣心教堂大约1.5公里路,暴走开始了。没过多久走到了一条主路上,2边都是茂盛的梧桐,想起小时候写作文常用的“法国梧桐”4个字,看来,法国还真是种了不少梧桐。。。

路开始渐渐陡了,我们在上坡ing。这也意味着,圣心教堂不远了。该教堂建于一个高地,据说从教堂前的平台可以欣赏到整个巴黎市的风景,当然也包括了铁塔。来到教堂所在的山底下了,此时已经1点半多了,先买点水和午餐充饥吧。在附近的小超市买了瓶水,以及在一家三明治店买了2个法式三明治,在品尝法国引以为豪的面包的同时,不禁要感慨一下,巴黎的物价,恐怖!!!用惯了英镑的我们都觉得这个物价难以接受,相信大家可以想象的到了。接下来的文章中会举例说明。

Thursday, July 17th, 2008